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  1. #21
    Resident Moose Supporter Moose's Avatar
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    I found these to be more user friendly
    I cut the jack tool off to use in my cordless drill
    No messing around 8-10 seconds to drop
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    OF4WD member 7468

    What we have here , is a failure to communicate

  2. #22
    Active Member onehoser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moose View Post
    I found these to be more user friendly
    I cut the jack tool off to use in my cordless drill
    No messing around 8-10 seconds to drop
    i see they're on sale at princess auto but i chose the stabilizing jacks because i'm not too concerned about being level as much as being stable when moving around inside the trailer. also i was concerned about them hanging down below the frame and reducing the departure angle for some of the fire/logging roads, the stab jacks tuck in nice and tight when not in use. thanks for the head's up
    OF4WD #5571

  3. #23
    Active Member onehoser's Avatar
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    i've also changed it's name from tintent 2.0 to the BUG-OUT BOX for obvious reasons, lol!
    OF4WD #5571

  4. #24
    Active Member PCO6's Avatar
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    Your tintent, sorry BUG-OUT BOX, is looking good. Are you able to work "indoors" with a electric heater during the winter?

    Re stabilizers & jacks, I'm currently working on modifying my tear drop trailer. I'm keeping an eye on what I'm taking off it and adding to it from a weight perspective. Mine came with a stabilizer at each corner. The "cabin" is basically 10' long by 5' wide and 4.5' high so not nearly as big as yours. I took the 2 front stabilizers off because I don't think they were needed. The tongue jack I added works fine up front. No doubt the particular parts you use will vary from brand to brand but that saved 15 lbs. I'm thinking of taking off the 2 rear stabilizers as well and adding 1 jack that I can put on either corner depending on the slope of the land, which won't usually be very much. The jack I will use (PA and pretty basic) weighs 12 lbs. so the net difference will be -18 lbs.

    I've tried the trailer with 3 points of ground contact - the tongue jack, one rear stabilizer (which could be replaced with a jack) and tire on the high side. Obviously the low side tire helps too. I don't spend a lot of time in it when camping, basically sleeping and changing clothes, but when I do it's pretty solid without the stabilizers.

  5. #25
    Active Member onehoser's Avatar
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    the bug-out box is too tall to fit in my carhole so i've been working on it outside in the cold. i'm doing the insulation as the mood takes me and i find being inside out of the wind is comfortable enough for me, after almost 40 years of working in construction i've learned to ignore extreme weather conditions. i have propane and electic heaters if i need them but so far i haven't used them.

    on my 5x8 tintent i just have 2 stab jacks at the rear corners and a tongue jack and they work great to stabilize it on 3 points and i'm betting 3 points on the bug-out box will be the same.

    weight is a huge concern for me also, i have found that the osb (cement board i call it, lol) weighs about 500 lbs! i'm replacing it with luan (sp?) for the walls and ceiling and replacing the floor with 1/2" plywood which will drop the weight by a little more than 250 lbs! the dry weight of the trailer before i started was 980lbs!
    OF4WD #5571

  6. #26
    Active Member PCO6's Avatar
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    I'm amazed that yours started out at 980 lbs. That's a lot of trailer. I keep a balance sheet. Without checking I'm at about 300 lbs. out and 400 lbs. in. It had a lot of things I didn't need. Do you have any use for an air conditioner? … going cheap! Seriously, I don't need it and it only weighs 42 lbs.! lol
    Last edited by PCO6; 03-24-2020 at 09:40 PM.

  7. #27
    Active Member onehoser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PCO6 View Post
    I'm amazed that yours started out at 980 lbs. That's a lot of trailer. I keep a balance sheet. Without checking I'm at about 300 lbs. out and 400 lbs. in. It had a lot of things I didn't need. Do you have any use for an air conditioner? … going cheap! Seriously, I don't need it and it only weighs 42 lbs.! lol
    i already have a small window shaker for it but i'm not sure yet where i'm going to place it, need to get more of the interior done first. i'm thinking of getting one of those portable a/c for now, that way i don't need cut holes or to haul it around in the cooler weather when i don't need it. thanks for the offer...
    OF4WD #5571

  8. #28
    Active Member PCO6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by onehoser View Post
    i already have a small window shaker for it but i'm not sure yet where i'm going to place it, need to get more of the interior done first. i'm thinking of getting one of those portable a/c for now, that way i don't need cut holes or to haul it around in the cooler weather when i don't need it. thanks for the offer...
    That makes perfect sense to me. Holes don't go away easily once you make them and this unit would definitely need a big one!

  9. #29
    Active Member onehoser's Avatar
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    check out tnttt.com teardrops n tiny travel trailers, lots of great info and help there. click on cargo trailer conversion.
    this was kind of a cool idea
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    OF4WD #5571

  10. #30
    Active Member onehoser's Avatar
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    i'm millwrighting the insulation to death, lol! custom fitting each piece so it friction fits without any gaps.....
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    OF4WD #5571

 

 

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